In 1879, Charles Jones and his brother-in-law, James Crockett received an initial capital of one hundred British pounds each, made available by the Thomas White Trust. It was intended "to encourage young men of good character to start for themselves...
They started... a shoe repair shop. And almost a century and a half later Crockett & Jones as one of the world's most iconic shoe brands. GW took a peek behind the scenes...
Although Crocket & Jones started its production from home, the company was soon so successful that a factory had to be set up. That too flourished, becoming a true family business, and around 1890 the 2nd generation came to the helm, Harry Crockett and Frank Jones.
It was also around this time that new machines were integrated, which had been invented by American Charles Goodyear. This was an important step, as it allowed the uppers, straps and soles to be sewn together. This made the production process easier and faster. Moreover, the quality of this construction process proved so good that ''Goodyear Welted' still applies today as a huge added value when it applies to your shoes.
Although the production process has naturally evolved since those early days, with the introduction of better machinery and greater attention to 'health and safety', much of the factory still looks much as it did when it first opened. Indeed, the manufacture of high-quality shoes remains highly labour-intensive, requiring highly skilled staff to carry out the more than two hundred individual operations over a production period that can last up to eight weeks. Here is an impression of what that piece of leather goes through before it gets to show off around your feet as a genuine Crockett & Jones shoe...
Pattern cutting
Prior to actual production, the design department creates patterns for the lasts, the wooden form on which the shoes are made. From this pattern, a prototype is made and tested. After any adjustments are made, a final sample pair is produced. It is crucial that the patterns fit properly before production begins.
Click
In the click department, the first real production stage, the upper and lining of the shoes are cut. The clicker is a craftsman, named after the 'click' sound the hand cutter makes when it is removed from the leather. The clicker is responsible for examining the leather for any defects, scars or growth marks, before each pair of shoes is cut by hand.
Close
In the next stage of production, the upper is 'closed'. This closing involves many different operations, such as punching the holes for brogue styles and hand-sewing, to give the final upper of the shoe its shape. For the closing room machinists excellent hand-eye coordination is essential.
Preparation
This involves preparation for the lower part of the shoes. The insoles and soles are cut from leather or rubber sheets using heavy presses. Before the insoles are placed on the last, a rib of material is attached, to which the edge will eventually be fastened. At this stage, the appropriate lasts are selected to match the closed upper.
Putting on the last
This last process is where the shoe begins to take its final shape. The upper of the shoe is attached to the back of the last to ensure the back height is correct. Then it is pulled over the last with the last machine, after which the sides are done manually. It is very important that the upper of the shoe fits the last very accurately.
Making
A key process in this department is welt sewing, in which the operator attaches the welt (a strip of leather) to the rib on the insoles. The welt is a key element in the Goodyear Welted process. The bottom of the shoes are filled with cork and the wooden cambreur is inserted to provide support under the insoles, before being sewn to the welt. This method allows the soles to be removed for insolation in the future without affecting the upper.
Finish
During finishing, heels are fixed, trimmed and then sanded with sandpaper for a smooth finish. Edge trimming is a highly skilled process, where the sole edges are trimmed to the specific shape of the last. This is done 'freehand', as are many other operations when making shoes with Goodyear Welting. The soles and heels are then coloured and hot wax is applied to the edges for a waterproof seal and a nice shine.
Shoe room
In the shoe room, the upper of the shoes is hand-polished to create a rich depth of colour in the leather. For some leathers, this has to be repeated several times. After this, the laces are inserted into the shoe and put into the shoe box. And finally, the shoes pass through a very last quality check before they are sent to shops.
Crockett & Jones...
...has been available for more than 60 years at Hermans shoes since 1906 in Utrecht.