Colouring outside the lines while being driven by perfectionism. And, of course, passion for his craft. Chef and co-owner of restaurants Daalder and Edel in Amsterdam, Dennis Huwaë, sets the bar high for himself. When the Corona virus temporarily lambasted the hospitality sector, Dennis and his team switched to a Take-away concept: "I had to take ten days to think it out, but then it was as I envisaged it. From menu to packaging."
Text: Karine Bloem. Photography (portrait Dennis and photo with the car): ©Lyan van Furth | lvffood.com
Who is Dennis Huwaë?
I am 35 years old, from Zaandam and am a proud father of two children, a daughter and a son. My wife and I have been together for about two decades. While studying Consumptive Technology, I made the choice to become a chef and went to the ROC in Amsterdam. I came into contact with the two-star chef (Guy van Cauteren -red.) of 't Laurierblad in Belgium, did an internship there and fell in love with the profession. A second internship at The Fat Duck (the 3-star establishment of renowned British chef Heston Blumenthal in Bray, UK -red.) fanned the flame even more.
After returning and finishing school, I went to work as an apprentice chef at Ciel Blue of Hotel Okura. Then at Brouwerskolkje in Overveen where I started working for Israeli chef Moshik Roth whose cooking style appealed to me enormously and from whom I learned a lot. When Moshik started for himself with & Samhoud, I joined him.
Four years ago, I started working with my current partner Frans (van Dam ed).
Flavours
Many interviews ask about my examples within this profession. Secretly, I admire everyone, but I don't really try to have an example and think it's important for everyone to find, have and keep their own identity. So much is already copied. It happens so often that you admire someone in the profession and then when you meet them it turns out to be very disappointing.
The most memorable dish I ever ate was at The Fat Duck: Jelly of Quail and Crayfish cream. The place, the moment... it was pure perfection. I just sat there crying. While I was interning there, it was my birthday and they had set an extra table in the restaurant for me under the stairs where I was eating by myself. Unforgettable!
My guilty pleasures are very simple: a Nuts (yes, that chocolate bar) and bami soup. And you can wake me up at night for a peanut butter sandwich too. These three things I eat too much and too often. I'm growing out of my chef's jacket by now....
Inspiration
I think the most beautiful profession in the world is singing. I have no talent for it myself, but I really love it! Why? You do something from the heart and can make so many people happy. It can make me very emotional when I listen to music. I really like the Latin American music of Romeo Santos. The last song listened to on my Spotify is by him: 'Sobredosis'. Listening to this makes me want to go on holiday straight away. And Jay-Z, Toni Braxton... In the kitchen, we play music all day long. My mood dictates what I listen to.
I actually like all kinds of art. From modern art at the Moco Museum to more classic works at the Van Gogh or Rijksmuseum. At Lionel Gallery in Amsterdam, I saw a painting (silkscreen -red.) by Damien Hirst which I find insane. There is feeling in it.
Some artists make things and then I think: what are you doing? Things have to be made with feeling or there's no point. That goes for everything, with music, art, food... A dish can look so good, if it doesn't taste like anything, the person doesn't know what they are doing.
I like watching films, but also a lot of series. Suits is awesome, El Patron del Mal... (Netflix series about Pablo Escobar -red.). Denzel Washington is a hero. Apart from being a top actor on the silver screen, I think he is an inspiring man. When you hear him lecture, something meaningful comes out of it too.
Clothes make the man
When I am not wearing my chef's jacket I dress smart casual. I prefer to wear a hoodie, T-shirt, jeans and Nike trainers. For clothes, I always succeed at Tenue de Nîmes. And I'm mainly a shoe collector, with most -I think about 80%- coming from Nike.
In terms of style, Kanye West and David Beckham always look good. I never look that much at how men dress, haha. Rihanna, can I mention that one too?
Armcandy
My watch is a Rolex Rosé Day Date. During work, I never wear jewellery anyway. I wear a watch for myself, not for others.
For now, I don't have a dream watch. You always have to be satisfied with what you have. In the past, I could never have imagined that I would ever buy this watch.
Home port
Zaandam is home. Family and friends all live there. We live in a single-family house, just outside the city centre. My wife is the boss as far as furnishings are concerned, haha! In short, it's a lot of soft tones, a grey sofa and a black marble floor.
There are three floors. On the second floor, a large kitchen in the middle of the living room. The terrace is attached to the kitchen. I SO love sitting outside. Whenever I can between jobs, I sit on Edel's terrace. If it would work out -ever - I would like to live in the Jordaan. I would love to be able to go home between lunch and dinner.
Wheels
We have a car for Daalder: the new Audi e-tron, an all-electric SUV, but still such a cool car! It's quite a treat to get to drive that. (See photo of Dennis with the car).
Leisure time
I try to exercise. I did that (pre-Corona) five days a week.
My free time is also for my family: taking my daughter to dancing lessons, going to football with my son... I also look after my grandparents. They are 93 and 89 respectively. They still live independently near me.
The first restaurant I want to eat at as soon as it is possible again is at De Librije. I can't see myself (because of the Corona crisis) going abroad just yet. So many restrictions and hassles, it takes the fun out of it.
TRAVEL
My last trip was to Sri Lanka and I loved it! A very beautiful country, incredibly kind people and very good food. We visited beautiful tea plantations there. The local cuisine is very similar to Indian and I really love curries. It also inspired me for a dish: North Sea crab, black curry and mango with fermented pepper. We ate black curry chicken there and I had never heard of black curry before. It is made from a nut that is actually poisonous, except when you ferment it, then it is edible. That nut gives the black colour to the curry. Here in Amsterdam, you can get almost anything in terms of ingredients from around the world. That is very nice for me, as a chef.
The craziest trip I experienced was mainly because everything went wrong on the way there. We went to Shenyang in China on a Monday for a cooking show that was to take place on Friday and flew via Hong Kong. Everything arranged. I thought. When I arrived in Hong Kong, my visa was refused. I had to return to the Netherlands immediately to apply for everything again urgently. Two boys from my team who came with me and whom I had to leave behind with the food were also refused a day later and had to return to the Netherlands. The food was supposed to be forwarded to Shenyang, but was also denied. Friday morning I finally arrived and in the evening I had that cooking show for 600 people. Was I standing there alone, without my team and the food, so I stood about conjuring....
A couple of destinations I have on my bucket list are Mexico City and the Moluccas. My family is Moluccan and I have never been there. Prerequisites for a trip are: food, being with my family and nice weather!