A few degrees of warming is sometimes not such a bad thing (at least, as long as wine is involved). Indeed, partly thanks to rising temperatures, the number of Dutch wine producers has risen from one to over two hundred over the past 50 years. Together, they own almost 350 hectares of vineyards. OK, not much compared to Bordeaux (120,000 hectares), but it's a start....
Text: Peter Bijpost
It all started with the Apostelhoeve, on the Louwberg near Maastricht. The Hulst family of fruit growers planted the first vines here in 1970. In doing so, they followed a centuries-old tradition: there were vineyards in this region as early as Roman times, but they gradually disappeared after the Middle Ages, partly due to the Little Ice Age.
That the renaissance of Dutch viticulture began in Limburg is not surprising. The Dutch climate is relatively cold and wet. Limburg has more sunshine hours and slightly higher temperatures. Grapes planted on south-facing slopes take full advantage of this. Moreover, the soil -black humus, loess and marl- is ideal for grapevines.
Thanks to global warming, the boundary to where viticulture is possible is shifting further and further north. Even in Sweden and Norway, vineyards can now be found - albeit on a very limited scale. The Dutch climate today is comparable to that of the Burgundy region of forty, fifty years ago. However, more climate change also brings new problems: periods of heavy precipitation, extreme summer heat and prolonged drought.
The modern science offers a helping hand for many problems. Since the 1980s, many so-called hybrid grape varieties have been developed: crosses of classic varieties that are more resistant to fungal diseases such as mildew and botrytis -characteristic of humid climates- and ripen faster. Especially in the cooler, wetter provinces, it is currently hybrid varieties like johanniter, solaris, souvignier gris and cabernet cortis that are producing good results, while in the warmer, drier south, well-known grapes like riesling, pinot gris, pinot noir and chardonnay are doing just fine.
An additional advantage of the disease resistance of the new grape varieties is that the vines do not need to be sprayed with chemicals. The vineyards and soil remain healthy, which is why more and more organic wines and even vins nature be produced.
Cuvee XII 2023, Apostelhoeve, IGP Limburg
Modern, quirky blend from the oldest Dutch wine estate, made from müller-thurgau, pinot gris and auxerrois. Broad in taste with exotic fruit and floral impressions. Delicious with fish, salads or asparagus.
Importer: Colaris € 21,95.
Pouring temperature: 10-12 degrees.
Ceci n'est pas un orange 2023 Vineyard Dassemus, IGP North Brabant
Orange wine made from the hybrid grape varieties solaris, souvignier gris, sauvignon soyhières, muscaris. Juicy, fresh and fruity and only 10% alcohol.
Importer: Daxivin € 20,50.
Schenktemperature: 12-14 degrees.
Raarberg Chardonnay Extra Brut 2021, Domain Holset, IGP Limburg
Surprisingly beautiful sparkling wine from Limburg with 15 months of bottle aging. Lively with fine acidity and a slight wood influence.
Importer: Vinetiq € 27,50.
Pouring temperature: 8-10 degrees.
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