For everyone involved in the watch industry, the first week of April was undoubtedly the most important week of watch year 2025. The largest trade fair Watches & Wonders Geneva grew even bigger, with no fewer than 60 brands presenting their latest models to retailers, press and consumers alike.
Text: Alon Ben Joseph
Since 'Geneva Watch Days' was created five years ago at the end of the summer holidays as an additional exhibition occasion, the week is now also called 'International Watch Week' by insiders. This is because at the same time near the airport -in addition to PalExpo, where Watchers & Wonders takes place- an alternative fair for another 77 watch brands is being organised at Villa Sarasin: Time To Watches. If this already seems overwhelming, enthusiasts and professionals can discover even more new watches in the centre of Geneva, in various suites of hotels and the mono-brand boutiques of the brands themselves.
Gentlemen's Watch asked me to choose 15 new watches that impressed me the most. Although in this review I am 'only' limiting myself to brands that made an appearance at Watches & Wonders, it was a far from easy task. The short deadline between sleeping four hours a night for a week, with the remaining hours filled with watch-related activities, and writing this article didn't help either. Because this week is SO overwhelming that you really need time to land and process all the info. But here it is: my personal Top 15 of a week full of watch news.
Trilobe Le Temps Retrouvé
What is it: A unique mechanical work of art named after Proust's last 1927 novel, Le Temps Retrouvé, or 'The regained time'. And, for the hedonists among us, this is totally cool: the bust is a copy of the head of the client, the one who orders this artwork.
Special because: A timepiece in the shape of a head. Very intriguing. No hands, no buttons, no numbers. Nothing suggests a watchmaker's nature. It is only when you get closer and listen carefully to the subtle ticking that you discover the fusion of art and mechanics. French watch brand Trilobe creates a copy of the client's head in marble with a patented mechanism that mimics the five senses, including the diffusion of a unique perfume. This work of art takes over 3,000 man hours each to manufacture.
Technical specs: piece unique, as a mould of the client's face is made by Stéphane Gérard Atelier. The timepiece is adapted to the shape of the face and consists of 2,050 parts. A unique perfume is also made in Paris for the client.
Target price: €400,000
Find out more: www.trilobe.com
Ulysse Nardin Diver
What is it: The lightest mechanical diving watch in the world. It weighs only 52 grams including the watch strap! Will this make you dive better, run faster or fly higher? Probably not, but in the pub you can brag that you have the lightest watch, which also just looks really cool.
Special because: The new Diver is the lightest mechanical diving watch ever created. Powered by the newly developed UN-374 calibre, a timepiece that weighs less than 10 grams due to extreme skeletonisation and the use of triangular bridge structures for maximum strength at minimum weight. Designed within an ecosystem of startups using titanium, silicon, carbon foil and Nylo®-Foil in a skeletonised design, the Diver is water-resistant to 200 metres and can withstand the impact of 5,000 G-forces.
Technical specs: Titanium / PA6 / carbon fibre, ø 44mm; manual winding manual UN-372 calibre; 90-hour power reserve; sapphire crystal; water resistant to 20 bar
Target price: €43,000
Find out more: www.ulysse-nardin.com
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon
What is it: The thinnest tourbillon wristwatch, once again. This is Bulgari's 10th world record for flattest wristwatch.
Special because: Bulgari has smashed another world record. It makes it into my Top 15 because I love the fact that Piaget, Richard Mille, Konstantin Chaykin and Bulgari have continued to outdo each other for over a decade and the watch is getting thinner and thinner. Technically fantastic. If you wonder about its usefulness, compare it to Formula 1 and its added value to regular cars, after being tested on the track. To illustrate exactly how thin this 1.85 mm is: a 10 euro cent coin is even thicker at 1.93 mm.
Technical specs: Titanium, ø 40 mm; handwind BVF 900 calibre; 42-hour power reserve; tourbillon; limited edition 20 pieces; water resistant to 1 bar.
Target price: €750,000
Find out more: www.bulgari.com
Eberhard & Co Contodat Chronograph
What is it: A 39 mm wristwatch with chronograph, which has good roots (Swiss quality with Italian flair), yet can be called very modern thanks to the completely newly designed 'integrated bracelet' - still totally hot in the watch industry.
Special because: It is a well-made retro model that meets the needs of collectors today. The new automatic mechanical chronograph features design elements reminiscent of the 1970s vintage model that served as its inspiration. The dial stands out with striking orange elements. The minute counter at 3 o'clock has a unique scale that extends the reading from 30 to 45 minutes. The date window retains the characteristic trapezoidal shape of the original vintage design.
Technical specs: Steel, ø 39 mm; automatic, SW510 B Ha calibre, 62-hour power reserve; chronograph; water resistant to 10 bar.
Guide price: €3970
Find out more: www.eberhard-co-watches.ch
Bremont Altitude MB Meteor
What is it: Despite the fact that this British brand is only a quarter of a century old, it is safe to say that they have made their mark in the watch world. Their most famous watch was probably the collaboration with ejector chair manufacturer Martin-Baker. An iconic model for the brand, which has now been taken in hand by star designer Davide Cerrato.
Special because: They have further developed a watch in Henley-on-Thames that is now surely a formidable competitor to IWC Schaffausen's Pilot collection. And then you have to come from good stock. There are three models in the collection and all three are very shock-resistant. The one I like best is the version in titanium with two crowns and a completely redesigned metal strap. The stencil type font works very well and this watch stands its ground among the many other GaDa (Go anywhere, Do anything) watches.
Technical specs: Titanium, ø 42mm; automatic, BB14-AH calibre (base LJP G100), 68-hour power reserve; internal diving ring, water resistant to 10 bar.
Guide price: € 5950
Find out more: www.bremont.com
Cartier Tank a Guichets
What is it: In itself, it is not surprising that Cartier once again dives into its own rich archives to make a re-edition. And with this re-edition of two different Tank a Guichets, they feel the zeitgeist well. British brand Fears has had success with Jump Hour timepieces for a few years now, and British brand Bremont also came out with two Jump Hour models this year. IWC also used to make beautiful Pallweber pocket watches with this type of mechanism as a digital time display.
Special because: The Tank was created in 1917 and just 11 years later, in 1928, Cartier was already starting to innovate and a Tank version was released without hands but with two windows, called 'guichet' in French. This year, Cartier is making a version with centred windows in yellow gold, red gold and platinum. They are also making a very exclusive version in an edition of only 200 in platinum, with the two windows positioned asymmetrically.
Technical specs: Platinum, ø37.6 x 24.8 mm; handwind, 9755 MC calibre, 43-hour power reserve; limited edition of 200 pieces.
Target price: €66,000
Find out more: www.cartier.com
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller 40, white Rolesor
What is it: Whenever Rolex launches a new model, all social media records are broken for the watch industry. So too now. At first there was criticism of the name, then the design of the model and finally the dial. We will leave open whether it is a reincarnation of the Oysterquartz with integrated watchband or not. Nor do I want to decide whether it is beautiful or not (the truth is in the eye of the beholder). But I am definitely a fan for one reason: the new Rolex calibre with pioneering technology in it.
Special because: Rolex's Land-Dweller is special because of its innovative Dynapulse escapement, which is a revolutionary alternative to the traditional Swiss anchor escapement. This new escapement is groundbreaking because energy is transmitted by rolling instead of sliding, making it more efficient and less sensitive to magnetic fields. Powered by an automatic winding system via a perpetual rotor, calibre 7135 is particularly notable for its revolutionary regulating mechanism -echappement and oscillator- that enables it to tap at a frequency of 5 Hz, or 36,000 ticks per hour, allowing time to be measured to the nearest tenth of a second.
Technical specs: Steel and white gold, ø 40 mm; automatic, 7135 calibre, 66-hour power reserve; integrated steel strap, water resistant to 10 bar.
Target price: €15,350
Find out more: www.rolex.com
Christiaan van der Klaauw Grand Planetarium Eccentric Meteorite
What is it: For the 50th anniversary of Dutch brand Christiaan van der Klaauw from the living legend of the same name, a groundbreaking watch was launched last year: Grand Planetarium Eccentric. This is the only mechanical planetarium watch in the world that can display all eight planets. In rose gold, you spend just €208,000 and in platinum a paltry €227,000, including VAT of course.
Special because: For fanatical fans of celestial bodies who don't yet find this extravagant enough, CovdK has something special this year: three watches with dial rings made of meteorite, incorporating untreated small meteorite shards. Very special, of course, but that doesn't explain why you have to shell out just under half a million euros extra for these limited editions... That's because the watch case is also made out of one big chunk of meteorite! So yes, the price tag can be called astronomical, but in my humble opinion certainly not expensive.
Technical specs: Meteorite, ø 44 mm; automatic, manufacture calibre - basic movement by Andreas Strehler with in-house developed and manufactured planetarium module, 60-hour power reserve; limited edition of 3 pieces.
Target price: €700,000
Find out more: www.klaauw.com
Nomos Glashuette Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer
What is it: There are few brands that design and make their own calibres, can keep the case thin and also have their own design language. Glashütte, Germany-based Nomos is one of them. So leave it to them to reinvent their popular Weltzeit and turn it into a beautiful sports watch.
Special because: Fourteen years after launching the highly successful Zurich Weltzeit, Nomos Glashütte comes out with a 40mm watch this year, just 9.9mm thick. The case legs (called lugs in Engls) have also been shortened for this model, providing a 'spec' important among collectors: lug-to-lug size of 48mm. And all for just under four thousand euros.
Technical specs: Steel, ø 40 mm; automatic, new in-house calibre DUW 3202, 42-hour power reserve; steel strap, water resistant to 10 bar.
Guide price: €3,940
Find out more: www.nomos-glashuette.com
Zenith G.F.J. Calibre 135
What is it: This year, the Swiss house Zenith from Le Locle celebrates its 160th anniversary and this should obviously be celebrated in style. Since the latest house colour is blue, Zenith has executed a series of four models in blue. I myself fell in love instantly when I got my hands on the 'G.F.J. Calibre 135' during Watches & Wonders. A reincarnation of calibre 135: the most awarded timepiece from the golden age of observatory chronometer competitions.
Special because: The original was presented in 1948. Calibre 135 was developed specifically to meet the standards of the Neuchâtel Observatory competitions. In 2022, Zenith launched a modern watch with ten vintage calibre 135 movements. They worked for three years to create a modern replica of the timepiece, and the result is worth seeing. Only 160 pieces will be made this year in platinum, featuring a natural lapis lazuli dial. Now the only hope is that they will launch more versions next year, with both a gold and steel case. Fingers crossed! And, fun fact: the initials GFJ are a tribute to its founder, Georges Favre-Jacot.
Technical specs: Platinum, ø 39.15 mm; handwind, calibre 135, 72-hour power reserve; set of three leather straps, water-resistant to 5 bar.
Guide price: €52,900
Find out more: www.zenith-watches.com
Czapek & Cie Antarctique Flying Tourbillon Secret Alloy
What is it: A crowning achievement of Czapek's highly successful Antarctique collection, it features a flying tourbillon movement, the new in-house-made calibre 9. Moreover, they also celebrate the brand's relaunch 10 years ago with a very special dial.
Special because: The dial of a very special alloy is made of what the brand itself calls 'Secret Alloy'. It is something of an open secret that this alloy contains gold, platinum, palladium and silver, but the exact quantities are not publicly known. The dial has undergone an intensive manual guilloché process to achieve the 'Singularity' style. Only 50 pieces will be made. That is few, but do not grieve, as two regular versions will also be made with a 'Glacier Blue' and 'Photon Sphere gold' colour scheme.
Technical specs: Steel, ø 40.5 mm; automatic, calibre 9, 72-hour power reserve; integrated steel strap, tourbillon, limited edition of 50 pieces, water resistant to 5 bar.
Guide price: around €82,000
Find out more: www.czapek.com
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
What is it: Personally, I am totally idolised by complicated timepieces AND Patek Philippe, so it might have made more sense for me to include the new Quadruple Complication with reference 5308G-001 in this Top 15. But no, it didn't make it. This is for the following two reasons: the 5308 has already been launched in 2024 during the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Tokyo AND... because, during the Watches & Wonders fair in Geneva, I completely fell in love with what is perhaps the least spectacular Patek Philippe watch, the Calatrava 6196P.
Special because: There is perhaps no 'dress watch' more elegant and timeless than this Calatrava. And this version in platinum with its fabulous 'Rose-gilt opaline' dial with anthracite white gold faceted 'obus'-style hour indexes is the perfect successor to reference 96 from 1932. At just 9.33 mm thick, I think this is a shot in the arm. Now this is what they mean by ''stealth wealth'.
Technical specs: Platinum, ø 38 mm; handwind, calibre 30-255 PS, 65-hour power reserve; leather straps, water-resistant to 3 bar.
Target price: EUR 46,800
Find out more: www.patek.com
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
What is it: The return of TAG Heuer's first F1 watch from the 1980s to celebrate TAG Heuer once again being the main sponsor of Formula 1.
Special because: It is inspired by the original cheerful and colourful F1 models, but modernised with a solar-powered quartz movement and grown to 38 mm in diameter. There are nine versions with either a rubber strap or steel band. Back to the roots.
Technical specs: Steel, ø 38 mm; solar quartz, calibre TH50-00, 10-month power reserve; rubber straps, water resistant to 10 bar.
Guide price: € 1750
Find out more: www.tagheuer.com
IWC Schaffhausen Ingenieur Automatic 35 Red Gold
What is it: Finally, the Engineer is back as a complete gold watch. And then also with an elegant case diameter of 35 mm. Indeed, there are not that many all-gold men's watches that are truly elegant.
Special because: Few know that in 1976, legendary designer Gerald Genta completely redesigned the Engineer -which saw the light of day back in 1955. Moreover, few know that those original SL versions were not only antimagnetic, but that a gold version also existed at the time. So that one is now back. To make this watch even more elegant and keep the thickness below 10 mm, IWC did have to make two concessions: swapping its own calibre for one from Richemont sister brand Cartier and abandoning the soft-iron inner case. But that is something I am happy to turn a blind eye to. After all, as a plaster for the wounds, you do get a sapphire back cover to admire the beautiful movement.
Technical specs: 18k red gold, ø 35.1mm; Automatic, calibre 47110 (base calibre Cartier 1847 MC), 42-hour power reserve; 18k red gold bands, water resistant to 10 bar.
Target price: €41,800
Find out more: www.iwc.com
Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive UFA
What is it: At Grand Seiko, they like evolution rather than revolution; preferring small steps in search of perfection. Hence the term Evolution in the name of this new SLGB003, which is a smaller brother of the popular 'White Birch Spring Drive SLGA009'. Now featuring micro-adjustment options in the strap's clasp.
Special because: There is no other watchmaker in the world that can polish cases as beautifully as Grand Seiko can then, with their special Zaratsu technique. And what completes this watch is the dial with a new 'Shinshu Ice Forest' embossed pattern, in silver with a light blue tint. But then the movement: at Grand Seiko, they have been looking for the ultimate chronometer for over a century, a timepiece that runs with extreme precision. That's also why they developed the hybrid Spring Drive calibres. And in case you're wondering what that UFA in the name stands for: that's an abbreviation Grand Seiko uses for a new generation of timepieces that meet the UFA standard-or Ultra Fine Accuracy, a reference to even higher accuracy. This is expressed not in seconds per day, week or month, but in accuracy over one year. The automatic UFA Calibre 9RB2 therefore has an astonishing deviation of only about 20 seconds per year!
Technical specs: Titanium, ø 37 mm; automatic, calibre 9RB2, 72-hour power reserve; titanium strap, water resistant to 10 bar.
Target price: €12,000
Find out more: www.grand-seiko.com
Alon Ben Joseph is a journalist and co-host of watch podcast 'The Real Time Show'
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