Like so many industries, commercial sailing was hit hard by the Covid crisis. Take skipper Jacob Dam with his Thalassa, for example. For decades he has been arranging whisky sailing trips around the Scottish islands, which had to be postponed to the chagrin of many whisky lovers. But procrastination is not a reprieve: the first sailing trip in two years towards Scotland is scheduled for August. Hans and Becky Offringa, known as The Whisky Couple, once sailed with...
Text: Hans Offringa. Photos: Charlie Marshall, Rob van Hilten, Becky Offringa
A week of sailing around Scotland's south-west coast - what to imagine? Let's start with the ship: a beautiful three-master -barquentine or also schoonerbark called-which can carry up to 36 people on board, including a six-member crew. The cabins are double, compact but cosy, equipped with bunk beds and they all have private showers. Toilets, both inside and outside on the deck, are shared. Ready, set? Go! Travelling in diary form...
Day 1 - Saturday
We arrive by car at the port of Troon on the south-west coast of Scotland. Troon is best known for its golf course, which was once depicted on a 'tin' of The Glenlivet. Around 1 o'clock in the afternoon, we meet captain and crew. The sailor takes us to our cabin where we install camera, laptop and other necessities. Over the next few hours, a cosmopolitan group of whisky lovers comes on board, from Belgium, Austria, Switzerland, Germany and -naturally- the Netherlands.
There is a real whisky master on board who will provide various tastings in the days to follow. His nickname is The Time Keeper of Whisky, as he combines his liquid passion with a profession as a horologist and jeweller. Once everyone has moved into and furnished their cabins, the signal sounds for departure. We motor out of the harbour, towards The Isle of Arran and the port of Lochranza. There is no wind, but that does not bother; everyone is tense about what is to come. Towards sunset, we moor at the small pier but do not disembark. We are served our first dinner on board. Jacob's son Jelle is the chef and we immediately discover that first evening how creative he is in the small kitchen amidships. We enjoy a starter of poached pears and Bleu d'Auvergne with arugola, followed by a chicken breast with Caesar Salad and Bowmore 15 Darkest. With coffee, a Talisker 57° North is poured.
Day 2 - Sunday
After a pleasant night's sleep and a hearty breakfast, we are fully prepared for the seven-hour crossing to Islay, via the Mull of Kintyre sung by Paul McCartney. There is a brisk breeze, which means hard work for captain 'n' crew, especially as the occasional downpour sweeps across the ship. Half of the travelling companions therefore prefer to stay inside the cabin, reading books, playing games or enjoying a tasting by Mr Time Keeper. The other half assists the crew in hoisting and reefing the sails. This is not compulsory by the way, you can do whatever you want on board, within the house rules of course. At the beginning of the evening we moor in Port Ellen harbour, which turns out not to be easy with a still strong wind.
Day 3 - Monday
A day to relax on Islay, Queen of the Hebrides. There are no fewer than eight working distilleries to visit here. The two of us go to Laphroaig all day because we need some photos and quotes for our new book about the distillery, which will be published in November. At dinner, the passengers poke fun at each other with stories about how many of the eight distilleries they have seen. I smile and enjoy a Lagavulin Double Matured. Becky fondles a Talisker 175, one of her top favourites.
Day 4 - Tuesday
Sailing through the Sound of Islay, the narrow strait between Islay and neighbouring island Jura, is a treat. With the wind blowing through my grey mane, I stand on deck enjoying the seals lounging on the 'craggs'. They are skilfully dodged by captain Jacob. We are on our way to Bunnahabhain, but when we get there the strong winds prevent us from anchoring and the Thalassa sticks too deep to moor at the pier. Jacob thinks it too risky to put out the 'dinghy' and ferry people across in it. He therefore decides to turn around and, as a consolation, Mr Timekeeper pours the travellers an 18-year-old Bunna.
We then sail to the port of Craighouse on Jura. The sky is blue, punctuated by white clouds tirelessly chasing each other. I spot a minke whale. Rumours that basking sharks have been spotted turn out to be nothing more than that - a rumour. The sun sets as we anchor in the bay on which Jura's only distillery and only hotel are located. Jelle treats us to freshly caught scallops. A day on the water makes you sleepy and we soon seek our cabin that evening.
Day 5 - Wednesday
After an early breakfast, we are transferred in groups of eight by dinghy to Craighouse to visit the distillery and spend a few hours on this fascinating island... Only 180 inhabitants and as many as 5,000 deer! In the early afternoon, we return to the Thalassa. This is not without a struggle. We have to row because the outboard motor breaks down. Fortunately, the Thalassa still has a spare.
The wind is favourable today, so Jacob has decided to call at an extra port - Ballycastle in Northern Ireland. That's a bonus no one counted on. It softens the sorrow of the missed visit to Bunnahabhain. The Thalassa makes nine knots and cuts through the water between Islay and Northern Ireland in no time. At the narrowest part, it is only 15 miles. The evening is filled with a real pub crawl with Irish whiskey and trad music. This is good, this is great! Deep into the night, we return to our floating accommodation thickly satisfied.
Day 6 - Thursday
Early in the morning we have to motor off. It is windless. As soon as we reach the Mull of Kintyre, it suddenly picks up and it is all hands on deck. Not long after, we sail into Campbeltown harbour. We are lucky. It's the annual whisky festival and we can attend a special Springbank tasting. After the tasting, we walk to the distillery courtyard where Kintyre's own Pipe Band performs a concert. They appear to enjoy the necessary fame and have just returned from Europe - the mainland that is. Their unique music completes the Scottish atmosphere. That's how the whisky tastes even better....
Day 7 - Friday
After another good night's sleep, we turn north, back to Arran. There we still have to visit the distillery of the same name. The crossing takes a good five hours. I make the time useful by staying in the wheelhouse with captain and mate, to learn something of sailing. Suddenly, out of the corner of my eye, I spot a group of dolphins that seem to be having a competition with the Thalassa. As soon as they have disappeared, the show is taken over by diving Jan van Gents like kamikazes, with their huge wingspan and snow-white feathers....
When, for the second time in a week, we moor in Lochranza, the weather shows its best side. We can cover the two miles walking dry to Arran distillery. This island is often called 'Scotland in Miniature' and it is soon clear why. Nature is beautiful, mountains, valleys, springs and rivers alternate. This is a place to spend more than a single day someday. Arriving at the distillery, we bump into an old acquaintance and briefly go into the warehouse with the distillery manager. He pulls open a 10-year-old Arran that has spent its entire life in a champagne cask. Grain and grape complement each other well here.
In the afternoon, we leave Arran and return to our departure point, Troon. The sailing trip ends with a fantastic Captains Dinner: langoustines, all you can eat, bought fresh that morning from a fisherman on Islay. The food couldn't be better, as could the memories of this trip. We will definitely go again, in late August, ice and Covid permitting.
Interested? See tallshipthalassa.co.uk for travel information and bookings.
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