Worn, used, second-hand, pre-owned or pre-loved watches ... whatever you call them, they are more popular than ever. You can find them online or at specialised shops. Like on chrono24 or at Amsterdam's Pre Owned & Vintage Boutique from Schaap & Citroen. Dennis Martens, commercial director, tells what you need to know before you pull out your wallet

Pre-owned or vintage?

"We call a watch 'vintage' if it has a year of manufacture before 1990. However, what we see the biggest demand for are pre-owned watches of a slightly younger year of manufacture (after 1990). We call those pre-owned."

Why is it that the pre-owned market is currently so on the rise?

"A good pre-owned collection creates demand from a new target group. Watches now become more accessible due to their more attractive price, with the same guarantees. Often, the difference between a new and a pre-owned watch can hardly even be seen. Also, the realisation that a well-maintained watch can still be of fine quality and also carry a story with it plays an important role."

GREEN DIALS

Prices in your pre-owned offerings range from €1,250 to €130,000. What are the most popular price segments?

"There is not really a line in that. For us, therefore, one price category has no priority over another. Moreover, we often get requests for a specific model, which we then look for in our international network of suppliers. Even with these kinds of orders, the amounts vary a lot."

Within the car market, some colours are known to be difficult to sell as second-hand. How do you view the trend of watches with green dials and bezels?

"In watchmaking, everything has to do with supply and demand. For dials with special colours, such as green and sometimes blue, production is often lower, so fewer copies are generally available. As a result, the price will remain relatively high not only now, but also in the future."

Is there such a thing as difficult and easy colours in the pre-owned market?

"There is no such thing as difficult or easy. But with historical pieces (vintage), discolourations and distinctive colours definitely affect value. Small discoloured accents of the hour markers, hands or sometimes the dial characterise a particular generation or production period. This can even ensure that if a brand had a manufacturing error decades ago and the dial is unintentionally discoloured, this can cause a considerable price increase. The imperfection is so distinctive that it actually adds to the history. And therefore a touch more charming than a seemingly 'more perfect' version."

PRE-OWNED WARRANTY

What should you pay particular attention to when buying a second-hand watch?

"Most important: when something seems too good to be true, it usually is too good to be true. Our advice would be to buy it from a point of sale where guarantees are given, so that if there is something wrong with it, it can be solved within a reasonable time. Actually, this applies to both new and pre-owned watches. But as much as it is obvious, it is still regularly forgotten."

Do you provide warranty on pre-owned watches and does it differ from that on a new watch?

"We offer a one-year warranty on pre-owned watches. This offers the same conditions as for new watches. However, the length of a warranty for new watches varies by brand, so it can be longer."

How important is it to have a watch serviced?

"A watch is one of the few things we carry with us continuously and intensively almost every day. It therefore needs to be serviced every five to eight years. Always have this done by an authorised dealer."

HISTORICAL MODELS

Of the pre-owned watches you sell, is their maintenance history known?

"The maintenance history is not always available, but this is not essential either. What is most important is its condition. Sometimes we receive a watch that has been serviced just a few months earlier, but that people have dropped shortly afterwards. This means it still needs to be put in order. On the other hand, we sometimes receive watches that have had a service three or four years ago, but are in perfect condition. In short, a check by the right experts is essential."

What exactly happens to a pre-owned watch that you buy before it goes on sale?

"The watch enters our purchasing department, where it is registered in our records. The purchasing department checks that the watch and accompanying box and papers are original and authentic and that the watch was previously obtained legitimately. It then goes to the watchmaking department, where the functioning of the watch is checked. This department also looks at the quality of the case, strap and clasp and determines whether they may need to be polished or matted. For some historical models, a conscious decision is made not to polish or mattify, as this is often the wish of collectors. But should it still need to be done, we will do so free of charge. If the watch has a leather or rubber strap that is no longer presentable enough, it will be replaced. Once the watch has passed the overall quality control and any service has been carried out, it will reach the product photographer, after which it will be posted online with a description. The watch itself is then waiting for its new owner in our Pre Owned & Vintage Boutique at the Conservatorium Hotel."

Which pre-owned watch should I buy today that will still be worth at least the same in 10 years' time?

"Because of the huge demand for and increase in value of Rolex (especially sports models) and Patek Philippe (especially Nautilus and Aquanaut), people sometimes feel that this is true for every brand. But this is not (yet) the case. So then the obvious thing to do is to be the first to mention these brands with said models. And probably this offers the greatest chance of value retention or any increase. But above all, I would also look at the classics from other brands, such as Omega's Speedmaster and Seamaster, Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet, Cartier's Tank, Reverso by Jaeger leCoultre, Luminor by Panerai and the IWC Portugieser. Most important, however, is not to let value appreciation be leading, and above all, let your feelings speak for themselves. Which watch makes your heart jump? That is often impossible to predict. You have to see and feel the watch. That's why we think it's so important to still offer the opportunity to experience this feeling in our boutique in addition to online."

Check: www.preowned.schaapcitroen.nl

FACTS

Chrono24 is the largest online marketplace specialising in (worn) watches. In 2019, demand for new watches through this platform was 35%, for used 65%.

The most popular brands worldwide on chrono24 in 2019 were: 1 Rolex, 2 Omega, 3 Breitling.

The most popular dial colours on chrono24 in 2019 were: 48% black, 14% blue, 12 % silver, 10 % white and 16 % other.

Most popular case sizes on chrono24 in 2019: 40 mm (28%), 42 mm (11%), 41 mm (9%). However, the other category (smaller than 36 mm or larger than 42 mm) was the most searched for at 32 %. www.chrono24.nl