It's not the first name you might think of when thinking of diving watches, but it's also the 'Grande Maison' Jaeger-Lecoultre has a long and special history in that field. This dates back to the 1950s, when diving was still a high-risk and mostly military activity. In 1959, Jaeger-LeCoultre devised a unique feature to enhance diving safety: a self-winding Memovox timepiece that gave an audible warning when it was time to return to the surface.
THREE-LAYERED
In 1968 came the sequel: The Memovox Polaris, with an internal rotating bezel and the alarm fitted with a three-layer case-back for better sound transmission. Although divers today mainly use modern electronic tools, Jaeger-LeCoultre is keeping mechanical history alive with this new Polaris Mariner Memovox. The 42 mm case closely follows the key design codes of the classic pieces, with their clean lines and dynamic mix of brushed and polished surfaces. As befits a diving watch, it is water-resistant to 300 metres (30 bar).
OPEN BACK
Compared to its predecessors, the 'school bell-like' sound of the alarm is virtually unchanged. However, Jaeger-LeCoultre is aware that today this is a watch for enthusiasts rather than divers. That is why the closed back of yesteryear has been replaced on the Polaris Mariner Memovox for a transparent sapphire back, allowing the wearer to see the hammer and the beautiful movement in action. This required a complete redesign of the strike mechanism, with the gong now attached to the side of the case. Costs €17,600 www.jaeger-lecoultre.com and Mutton & Lemon.